Your skin surface lipids contain a mixture of those found in your lipid matrix (ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids), as well as those found in the sebum (oil) produced from your sebaceous glands (oil glands).
Sebum is mostly made up of triglycerides (30-60%), wax esters (20-30%), free fatty acids (10-30%), and squalene (10-20%). Squalene and wax esters, in particular, are unique to your sebum and are not found anywhere else in your body. Each play a slightly different role within your sebum:
Squalene and wax esters create a protective barrier on the surface of your skin to seal in moisture and electrolytes
Triglycerides and free fatty acids help prevent infection by stopping harmful bacteria from penetrating your skin
The amount of sebum your skin produces is heavily influenced by your hormones, peaks during puberty, and may fluctuate during your menstrual cycle, pregnancy, or menopause. As you age, your skin usually produces less sebum which can lead to drier, rougher skin.
Skin Sebum also helps to:
- Protect your skin from UV radiation
- Prevent the growth of bad bacteria
- Deliver fat-soluble antioxidants (e.g. Vitamin E) to the surface of your skin
- Regulate inflammatory responses
- Keep your skin hydrated
- Maintain your skin’s ACID MANTLE
Your ACID MANTLE is a film-like covering made up of sebum, sweat, lactic acid, and fatty acids. It covers the surface of your skin and helps maintain its naturally acidic pH ~4.7 – 5.9
- An acidic skin pH is important for healthy skin as:
- It keeps your skin’s waterproof barrier intact (keeping your skin hydrated)
- It controls and balances the bacteria that live on the surface of your skin
Your stratum corneum contains a number of enzymes that are pH-dependent, meaning that they require a certain pH level to function normally.
For example, an enzyme that is essential for the production of ceramides requires an acidic pH (5.6). An acidic skin pH (6 or below) allows for the growth of normal flora or ‘good bacteria’, while pathogenic or ‘bad’ bacteria thrive in alkaline conditions (above 7)
If you have a more alkaline skin pH, it can unbalance your skin’s microbiome and may increase your risk of infectious skin conditions
Skincare products that have a higher pH (more alkaline) can damage the skin’s barrier (ACID MANTLE) and the functioning of some important pH-dependent enzymes. A more alkaline skin has been linked to a number of skin conditions, including:
- Acne
- Atopic dermatitis
- Seborrheic dermatitis
- Eczema
Let us start with the first and most common skin condition that we see.
Acne
The global anti-acne cosmetics market size was valued at USD 4.13 billion in 2021 and is expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 9.0% from 2022 to 2030. The negative social stigma associated with acne and the rising consumption of cosmetics by both men and women, especially from emerging economies are majorly estimated to drive the market growth. The aesthetics industry witnessed significant setbacks due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Since the majority of the cosmetic products are not a medical necessity, lockdown in several countries led to the closure of several beauty salons & med spas, dermatology clinics, and retail stores. However, the online sales of anti-acne cosmetics surged by the end of 2020 as COVID-19 restrictions were eased.
Acne is a highly prevalent skin disorder among adolescents. According to an article published by the Journal of The European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, more than 95% of boys and nearly 85% of girls are affected by acne during their adolescence. Out of these, nearly 40% experience moderate‐to‐severe acne and nearly 50% continue to have acne in their adulthood. The high prevalence of acne, especially in the young population, is anticipated to fuel market growth. The anti-acne mask segment in the U.S is expected to grow at a significant CAGR from 2022 to 2030.
COVID-19 impact: A 7.2% increase in demand was observed
| Pandemic Impact | Post COVID Outlook |
| According to a study published by Clinics in Dermatology, nearly 33% of healthcare workers developed acne, dermatitis, and facial itching due to the use of an N95 face mask. | Industry players are anticipated to focus on digital channels to capture and convert the attention of existing as well as new customers. |
| Sephora’s U.S. business witnessed a nearly 30% increase in its online sales as compared to 2019 | Retailers and brand stores are expected to offer discounts, sales, and other promotions to bring in consumers and clear inventory as these stores are witnessing relatively low (~9% to 43% ) customer traffic as compared to the pre-COVID level. |
Acne – What is it
Acne is a skin condition that occurs when your hair follicles become plugged with oil and dead skin cells. It causes whiteheads, blackheads or pimples. Acne is most common among teenagers, though it affects people of all ages.
Effective acne treatments are available, but acne can be persistent. The pimples and bumps heal slowly, and when one begins to go away, others seem to crop up.
Depending on its severity, acne can cause emotional distress and scar the skin. The earlier you start treatment, the lower your risk of such problems.
Acne signs vary depending on the severity of your condition:
- Whiteheads (closed plugged pores)
- Blackheads (open plugged pores)
- Small red, tender bumps (papules)
- Pimples (pustules), which are papules with pus at their tips
- Large, solid, painful lumps under the skin (nodules)
- Painful, pus-filled lumps under the skin (cystic lesions)
Acne usually appears on the face, forehead, chest, upper back and shoulders.
What causes Acne
Four main factors cause acne:
- Excess oil (sebum) production
- Hair follicles clogged by oil and dead skin cells
- Bacteria
- Inflammation
Acne typically appears on your face, forehead, chest, upper back and shoulders because these areas of skin have the most oil (sebaceous) glands. Hair follicles are connected to oil glands.
The follicle wall may bulge and produce a whitehead. Or the plug may be open to the surface and darken, causing a blackhead. A blackhead may look like dirt stuck in pores. But actually, the pore is congested with bacteria and oil, which turns brown when it’s exposed to the air.
Pimples are raised red spots with a white centre that develop when blocked hair follicles become inflamed or infected with bacteria. Blockages and inflammation deep inside hair follicles produce cyst like lumps beneath the surface of your skin. Other pores in your skin, which are the openings of the sweat glands, aren’t usually involved in acne.
Certain things may trigger or worsen acne:
- Hormonal changes. Androgens are hormones that increase in boys and girls during puberty and cause the sebaceous glands to enlarge and make more sebum. Hormone changes during midlife, particularly in women, can lead to breakouts too.
- Certain medications. Examples include drugs containing corticosteroids, testosterone or lithium.
- Diet. Studies indicate that consuming certain foods — including carbohydrate-rich foods, such as bread, bagels and chips — may worsen acne. Further study is needed to examine whether people with acne would benefit from following specific dietary restrictions.
- Stress. Stress doesn’t cause acne, but if you have acne already, stress may make it worse.
How to treat Acne
Treating acne varies depending on the severity of the acne. There are many good products on the market that can help and there are a few lifestyle remedies such as:
- Wash problem areas with a gentle cleanser. …
- Try over-the-counter acne products to dry excess oil and promote peeling. …
- Avoid irritants. …
- Protect your skin from the sun. …
- Avoid friction or pressure on your skin. …
- Avoid touching or picking acne-prone areas. …
- Shower after strenuous activities.
Rosacea
Up to 10% of Australians are diagnosed with rosacea, especially women aged over 30 with lighter skin tones, although it can develop at any age, and also occurs in those with deeper skin tones. It also runs in families.
What is Rosacea
Rosacea is a common skin condition that causes redness, flushing, and sometimes pimples and pustules on the face.
It’s not the same as acne, but it can make you feel embarrassed or lose confidence, particularly if it is left untreated.
Rosacea isn’t contagious but there is some evidence that it may be hereditary. There’s no cure for rosacea, but there are treatments available that can help control it.
What are the symptoms of Rosacea
You may have rosacea if you have:
- frequent blushing, flushing or redness on your cheek, nose, chin or forehead
- persistent redness that looks similar to a sunburn that does not go away
- small visible blood vessels on the face
- bumps or pimples on the face that might sting or burn (most often on the cheeks, chin and nose)
- red or irritated eyes or swollen eyelids
Over time, the redness may last longer.
You may also notice that the skin becomes thicker, especially around the nose, and the nose may become swollen.
In some people rosacea can affect the eyes. This can cause red, sore or gritty eyes or eye margins, which can lead to conjunctivitis and swollen eyelids. See an eye specialist if your eyes are being affected, so treatment can be given to prevent damage.
What can trigger the Rosacea
Many people with rosacea find that certain factors can trigger their symptoms, such as sun exposure, stress, hot weather, alcohol, hot, spicy foods, exercise, hot baths, or certain medicines or skin care products.
You may try keeping a diary to help identify what triggers your symptoms. Then you’ll know what to try to avoid.
How to treat Rosacea
While there’s no cure for rosacea, there are several treatments your doctor or skin specialist (dermatologist) may recommend helping control the symptoms.
Common treatments include creams or gels containing antibiotics, azelaic acid, brimonidine or Ivermectin to put on the skin, and a range of oral antibiotics. Laser treatment may be suggested to treat redness or visible blood vessels.
